Sunday, 24 June 2012

SÜLZ

Noteable Metro Stations
Zülpicher Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 9, 13
Eifelwall – Line 16
Weyertal – Line 9
Lindenburg – Line 9
Sülzburgstrasse – Line 16

Sülz is a charming little corner of Cologne, which lies south-west of the city centre, and is well connected, situated as it is in a triangle between busy metro stations, Zülpicher Platz and Barbarossaplatz. Despite this, it remains a quiet quarter that is perfect for an afternoon spent absent-mindedly shopping, before meeting up with friends for an intimate soirée.

Shopping
Being far enough removed from the city centre, Sülz is a shopping paradise for those who prefer to steer clear of the high street names. Zülpicher Strasse and Berrenrather Strasse, in particular, are littered with independent and vintage clothing boutiques. The shops on Zülpicher Strasse are most accessible from Weyertal (Line 9) and Berrenrather Strasse itself is not too difficult to find from here. The area is nicely arranged in neat squares, so if you are heading along Zülpicher Strasse, away from the city centre, you simply have need to turn left down one of the many side streets (Marsiliusstrasse, Gustavstrasse, Redwitzstrasse – to name just a few) and you will eventually find yourself on Berrenratherstrasse.

One boutique that, for me, shines out from all the other is a dress shop on Zülphicher Strasse (Weyertal), next to a shop that sells Africana, called 'Afrika Hautnah', that I believe to be called 'Cava cava'. The garments in this little gem of a store are unique, and can be tailored to fit by the in-store seamstresses if required. Anything you buy from here will be a little more pricey than your average but will be guaranteed to be elegant and make you feel like a million dollars.

If you like to snack while you shop, there is also a strange little establishment just up the road from here, 'Kaffee Klamott', where you can combine a lovely cup of tea or coffee and a slice of cake with … clothes shopping ; combining, as it does, cafe and boutique.


photo from kaffeeklamott.de

For a full make-over, a more unusual recommendation comes in the form of hairdressing chain 'Cutters' (Sülzburgstrasse). For anybody residing in Cologne for long enough to need a haircut, the thought can be a bit scary, especially for an English-speaker whose doesn't really specialise in German hairdressers' lingo. At Cutters, though, after waiting (you get given a customer number like at a supermarket delhi counter, but you can leave a come back if your wait is a long one), you get your hair cut and then – here is the crucial part – you are sent over to a styling station where you are left in peace with straighteners and products to style your hair how you like it. Only then do you return to the hairdresser for the final cut. An ingenious system that really can save you from Unfortunate-Haircut-Abroad syndrome.

Socialising
There is certainly plenty of choice for venues in Sülz to socialise. The area is bursting with cafes, pubs, bars and restaurants – something for every occasion. For me, a perfect crawl in Sülz would start off, on a sunny day, with a few refreshing glasses of kölsch outside the Eckstein (Sülzburgstrasse), followed up by a meal at mexican restaurant Cafe Rosarita on Weyertal, just a short walk off Zülphicher Strasse (Weyertal). The menu boasts that they serve the best chili that you will ever have tasted. My own father, who would usually take great joy in being able to contradict such a bold statement, still claims it to be true, as does my brother. Whilst I never tried their chili, I found the enchiladas to be delicious



Bursting from a wonderful meal at Cafe Rosarite, you will most likely want to unwind. If you head back to Zülpicher Strasse (Weyertal) you will not be far from Sahara – a tropically decorated cafe/restaurant where you can smoke shisha, enjoy a pot of marroccan mint tea and really feel like you are on a different continent.

If, after all of that, you are still in the mood for more festivities, I would recommend the Schmelztiegel – a pub situated directly between Eifelwall and Barbarossaplatz. It is quite popular with students, as it is a local meeting place for the town's Erasmus society (to my recollection they meet on Tuesday evenings during term-time), so it is a great place to meet people. In the summer, it has also been known to be filled with sand and fitted out with deck-chairs.


left-hand image of Rose Club from locationsite.de.  Right hand image from Schmelztiegel.eu

If dancing is your thing, you can find the Rose Club just over the road, but it is not for the faint hearted – it is a very small venue that gets VERY busy and VERY hot. The music is great, but this really won't be enough for you if you require a bit of breathing space and the possibility of somewhere to sit at some point on a night out. Also, the Rose Club will routinely refuse to serve you tap water when you're gasping for a drink of something non-alcoholic to keep you on your feet. So be prepared to keep enough money to one side for the odd bottled water.



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