Wednesday, 18 July 2012

CITY CENTRE

Noteable Metro Stations:
Appelehofplatz/Breitestrasse – Lines 3, 4, 16, 18
Neumarkt – Lines 1, 3, 4, 7, 9, 16, 18
Rudolfplatz – Lines 1, 7, 12, 15
Dom/Hbf – Lines 5, 16, 18

I don't have all that much to say about the city centre in Cologne. Partly for the reason that it is filled with, mostly, exactly the same shops as any European city centre, partly because I've never really been one for shopping.

Hohe Strasse - Schildergasse
If shopping is your … erm … bag, then you should start off on Hohe Strasse (Dom/Hbf), a rather cramped, ugly little street near the Cathedral. Partly due to the nature of the shops here (there are about three “H & M”s), and partly because it double up as a handy thoroughfare, Hohe Strasse gets very busy and is probably best avoided on a Saturday.


left-hand photo courtesy of marriott.com; right hand photo courtesy of koeln.de

This route does expand as you near the second street of note – the rather more modern and appealing Schildergasse, which stretches as far as Neumarkt and, as well as the usual favourites, does have some welcome additions. One of these being “The English Shop”, tucked away down a side street. It sounds like a ridiculous point of interest for a British visitor to the city, but it really is invaluable for providing all of those foodstuffs that you'll be surprised you miss (for me, it was HobNobs), and it is a great place to shop for “traditional English” gifts for any Germans that you might meet as a cultural exchange, or expression of gratitude for services provided/sofas slept on.

Be warned though, whilst more spacious, Schildergasse, too, can become hideously busy at peak times. According to the minimal research conducted for this guide, it is actually the busiest high street in Europe! Which makes it all the more eeyrie on a Sunday when the shops are closed and there is not a soul about.

Breite Strasse/Ehrenstrasse
My own personal trek through the city centre, though, would have me setting off from Appelhofplatz/Breite Strasse and taking a leisurely stroll to Rudolfplatz via Breitestrasse and Ehrenstrasse. In my opinion, this area of the city centre is far more diverse and has something to offer almost anyone. It isn't as plagued by the usual high-street culprits, so visiting a boutique there might mean that you actually witness something new for a change, whether that be tasteless knick-knacks, vintage clothing, household items, fabrics, books or sex toys.


The area also offers a lot of choice in the way of refreshments. There are traditional pubs, chic bistros, budget bakeries, trendy restaurants and charming cafes. A personal favourite of mine is the cafe in the Opern Passagen on Breite Strasse. Try the cake – it's fancy.


NS-Dokumentationszentrum
Appelehofplatz/Breitestrasse – Lines 3, 4, 16, 18

If you've come into town with friends, but shopping doesn't interest you at all, then leave your friends to wander of window licking whilst you stop off at the NS-Dokumentationszentrum at Appelhofplatz 23-25 (that's the National Socialist (Nazi) documentation centre to you). This former Gestapo headquarters has been transformed into a museum; a representation of life in Cologne during the Second World War.




As a former Gestapo base, the building was used, in the early days of the war, to house politically subversive prisoners. Some painstaking restoration has removed the layers of plaster hurriedly applied to the tiny cells to reveal graffiti and etchings made by those incarcerated. It really is an eye-opener. You will also learn plenty about the fate of Jews and “genetically imperfect” peoples during the war, in general, with many case studies to be viewed, along with enormous prints of photographs of Cologne taken during the war. These photos will show Cologne as you've never seen it before and, hopefully, never will again. The NS-DZ is a fantastic legacy and a wonderful memorial to all those who died. Let's hope that by remembering and honouring, future monstrosities on this scale can be avoided. 


No comments:

Post a Comment