Thursday, 12 February 2015

SEATTLE - LOWER QUEEN ANNE

It seems fitting that my journey of remembrance should begin here. Queen Anne South manages all at once to be wonderfully relaxed and vibrant. During our stay we were based here in the MEDITERRANEAN INN and didn't even come close to exploring all that the area had to offer. Whilst only a stone's through from the SEATTLE CENTER, which houses the city's iconic Space Needle landmark, the main reason to visit Queen Anne South is … the food!
the view of the Space Needle from Mediterranean Inn's rooftop terrace

Misconception #1: American dining is synonymous with Fast Food

Queen Anne South is home to the most varied cuisine I have ever experienced in one relatively small neighbourhood. Not only do they have it all, but the quality is also phenomenal. Having experienced this fairly consistently throughout Seattle I can only conclude that quality of the ingredients used makes every difference. Sour cream is tangy and fresh, not bland, and served at room temperature, not straight from the fridge; barbecue sauce is not simply sweet, but also has a nice smoky, tangy kick to it. I could go on. There are many cuisines that I did not get around to sampling in Queen Anne – I have heard that they have amazing Spanish and French restaurants – but here are a couple of the places that we did try and loved:

T.S. MCHUGHS
21 Mercer St | http://tsmchughs.com

photo from venue's own website

This little Irish gem is definitely to blame for my limited scope of the food on offer in Queen Anne. Jet-Lagged and luggage-less, on our first evening in Seattle we stumbled out in search of nourishment not served in foil trays and ended up picking the least ambitious establishment imaginable for two English tourists with Irish heritage. How glad I am that we were so unambitious! T.S. McHughs became our “local” for the duration of our stay and we came back here several times.

Misconception #2: American manners are a product of customer service requirements and always geared towards a sale.

...either that or they have become experts in persuading the consumer to the contrary. The people of Seattle are without a doubt the friendliest that I have ever met, and my introduction to them began with the staff at T.S. McHughs.

Not only were they friendly and welcoming, but they were happy to recommend food from the menu and talk to us about the qualities of the various craft beers available (a local specialty), without being even the slightest bit patronising or reeling off a sales pitch. They asked questions to judge our tastes and even advised us to carry our passports about with us as local bars would be likely not to serve us without them, and might not recognise a UK drivers' license as a valid ID.

On top of that the beers were great (if a little pricey, though this is fairly standard in Seattle) and the food was hearty and wholesome: battered local-caught fish, fries and freshly-baked soda bread.

Suffice to say we returned to T.S. McHughs on our final night in Seattle to end our vacation exactly as it had begun: with great food, great beer and a friendly, warm atmosphere. Our hosts seemed genuinely sad to see us leave.

ROTI
530 Queen Anne Ave N | http://rotirestaurantseattle.com

Roti, an Indian restaurant just around the corner from T.S. McHughs was not one that we initially had high hopes for. Being British, we rather assumed that our own country ran the monopoly on authentic, high quality Indian cuisine outside of India itself. We weren't convinced that America would be able to impress our cultivated taste buds; sensitive to the complex flavours and spices of the now-British staple. Additionally the exterior was very understated and could have done with a bit of attention. I now feel foolish for judging it on this point, as the less showy Indian restaurants that I have frequented in the UK have often offered the best dishes.

There's not much really that I can say to express, once again, how wrong I was. The food was esquisite, flavoursome and complex, and the interior was actually richly coloured and ostentatious in just the right way, with lanterns uplighting beautifully crafted, intricate wooden and brass features on the walls and ceilings; separating the vibrant oranges, regal reds and luscious greens. Roti is a restaurant where you feel entirely justified taking a photo of both the venue and your food.

PLAZA GARIBALDI

129 1st Ave N | http://www.pgaribaldi.com/
Wonderful, tasty, colourful Mexican cuisine...and lots of it! There's not much more to say than that!

(basically I'm running out of food adjectives, but do go here!)

Other Attractions

Whilst Lower Queen Anne is definitely an area best known as a hotspot for wining and dining, it does have other attractions worth checking out. I loved the second-hand book shop, MERCER STREET BOOKS, which had an impressive american crime section for such a small boutique.

The SIFF CINEMA UPTOWN is also a must visit for any hard-core film fan. As well as the current blockbusters they will also show retro/cult films that are often hard to come by, with the added occasional bonus of a Q&A session with members of the cast.

If you're travelling without a car I'd also encourage any travelling Brits to pay a visit to the local Safeway, as it is the only authentically American supermarket that I came across within walking distance of our Hotel...and we walked a lot. It is therefore one of the only opportunities you will have to giggle at the stereotypically American sized portions of those who bulk buy – enormous plastic jugs of milk that wouldn't even fit in a British fridge; ice cream priced and sold by the pint (commonly with three pints to one tub); bags of crisps twice the largest size sold in the UK.

Fremont – coming soon
Belltown – coming soon
Downtown Seattle – coming soon
Pioneer Square – coming soon

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