CITY-WIDE EVENTS

Useful though it may be, the metro is not the only way to sight-see in Cologne – there are many yearly events that take place right throughout the city...

Karneval

Mid-late February

Cologne Carneval takes place over a weekend - from Thursday, to the following Monday – in February every year. The whole city (and, obviously, many tourists) turns out to celebrate ; usually decked out in ridiculous clothing. The fancy-dress outlets make a killing, as do the kiosks, as thousands take to the streets to drink, sing ridiculous and catchy ditties and enjoy the various parades as they travel through the city.

The largest of these parades takes place on the final Monday of Karneval and goes through the heart of the city. Thousands flock to Cologne for this parade alone, so be sure to get out there early to secure yourself a good vantage point. If you can't, though, it is no great disaster : the floats are impressive so you'll still see plenty and sweets, chocolates and flowers are thrown out into the crowd from a-top these floats so you should still come away with a decent haul. Alternatively, listen out for details on parades in smaller communities on the days leading up to the climactic Rosenmontag. I, myself, went to a parade amongst a small community in Wesseling, which was just as fun .

Christmas Markets

Open for a couple of months, leading up to Christmas

Cologne's Christmas markets are just what you might expect from a Christmas market, having become somewhat of a tradition also now in the UK – just expect a grander scale. Rather than just being confined to one area, they spread out across the whole of the city centre : throughout the Altstadt, around the Cathedral, at Rudolfplatz, and Neumarkt (my personal favourite), etc. They are also much more diverse than you would find in the UK : There are markets on boats, along the Rhine and there is even a medieval-themed market near the Chocolate Factory that incorporates theatre performances.

C/O Pop Festival

Late June

C/O Pop is a festival that runs every year in Cologne in bars and music venues throughout the city. The genre of the acts playing can be quite diverse, with bands from all over the world coming to take part, so it is worth looking into, no matter what kind of music you prefer. The vast marjority of events are also priced very reasonably indeed, though you may need to fork out a bit more for some of the bigger names.

The highlight of this festival for me, though, is the 'Chic Belgique' event ; the 'festival within a festival' – a full day's worth of gigs played in boutiques in Cologne's Belgian Quarter that is totally free to attend.

So, what is the best way to reach and take in the Belgian quarter ? Leave the metro at Rudolfplatz head down Hohenzollenring in the direction of Friesenplatz. Turn off left at Maastrichterstrasse and follow the road around through Brüsseler Platz and Brüsseler Strasse. Feel free to pop into any of the little boutiques that you see along the way and browse (some sell some interesting clothing and knick-knacks) while the bands play : An unforgettable experience that you are unlikely to get elsewhere.

For more information, see their website: c-o-pop.de

INDEX

THE RHINE

DOM & ALTSTADT

NORTHERN COLOGNE

RUDOLFPLATZ

LINDENTHAL

EHRENFELD

SÜLZ

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ

SOUTHERN COLOGNE

CITY CENTRE

CITY-WIDE EVENTS

CITY CENTRE

Noteable Metro Stations:

Appelehofplatz/Breitestrasse – Lines 3, 4, 16, 18

Neumarkt – Lines 1, 3, 4, 7, 9, 16, 18

Rudolfplatz – Lines 1, 7, 12, 15

Dom/Hbf – Lines 5, 16, 18

I don't have all that much to say about the city centre in Cologne. Partly for the reason that it is filled with, mostly, exactly the same shops as any European city centre, partly because I've never really been one for shopping.

Hohe Strasse - Schildergasse

If shopping is your … erm … bag, then you should start off on Hohe Strasse (Dom/Hbf), a rather cramped, ugly little street near the Cathedral. Partly due to the nature of the shops here (there are about three “H & M”s), and partly because it double up as a handy thoroughfare, Hohe Strasse gets very busy and is probably best avoided on a Saturday.

left-hand photo courtesy of marriott.com; right hand photo courtesy of koeln.de

This route does expand as you near the second street of note – the rather more modern and appealing Schildergasse, which stretches as far as Neumarkt and, as well as the usual favourites, does have some welcome additions. One of these being “The English Shop”, tucked away down a side street. It sounds like a ridiculous point of interest for a British visitor to the city, but it really is invaluable for providing all of those foodstuffs that you'll be surprised you miss (for me, it was HobNobs), and it is a great place to shop for “traditional English” gifts for any Germans that you might meet as a cultural exchange, or expression of gratitude for services provided/sofas slept on.

Be warned though, whilst more spacious, Schildergasse, too, can become hideously busy at peak times. According to the minimal research conducted for this guide, it is actually the busiest high street in Europe! Which makes it all the more eeyrie on a Sunday when the shops are closed and there is not a soul about.

Breite Strasse/Ehrenstrasse

My own personal trek through the city centre, though, would have me setting off from Appelhofplatz/Breite Strasse and taking a leisurely stroll to Rudolfplatz via Breitestrasse and Ehrenstrasse. In my opinion, this area of the city centre is far more diverse and has something to offer almost anyone. It isn't as plagued by the usual high-street culprits, so visiting a boutique there might mean that you actually witness something new for a change, whether that be tasteless knick-knacks, vintage clothing, household items, fabrics, books or sex toys.

The area also offers a lot of choice in the way of refreshments. There are traditional pubs, chic bistros, budget bakeries, trendy restaurants and charming cafes. A personal favourite of mine is the cafe in the Opern Passagen on Breite Strasse. Try the cake – it's fancy.

NS-Dokumentationszentrum

Appelehofplatz/Breitestrasse – Lines 3, 4, 16, 18

If you've come into town with friends, but shopping doesn't interest you at all, then leave your friends to wander of window licking whilst you stop off at the NS-Dokumentationszentrum at Appelhofplatz 23-25 (that's the National Socialist (Nazi) documentation centre to you). This former Gestapo headquarters has been transformed into a museum; a representation of life in Cologne during the Second World War.

As a former Gestapo base, the building was used, in the early days of the war, to house politically subversive prisoners. Some painstaking restoration has removed the layers of plaster hurriedly applied to the tiny cells to reveal graffiti and etchings made by those incarcerated. It really is an eye-opener. You will also learn plenty about the fate of Jews and “genetically imperfect” peoples during the war, in general, with many case studies to be viewed, along with enormous prints of photographs of Cologne taken during the war. These photos will show Cologne as you've never seen it before and, hopefully, never will again. The NS-DZ is a fantastic legacy and a wonderful memorial to all those who died. Let's hope that by remembering and honouring, future monstrosities on this scale can be avoided. 

INDEX

THE RHINE

DOM & ALTSTADT

NORTHERN COLOGNE

RUDOLFPLATZ

LINDENTHAL

EHRENFELD

SÜLZ

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ

SOUTHERN COLOGNE

CITY CENTRE
CITY-WIDE EVENTS

SOUTHERN COLOGNE

Noteable Metro Stations:

Eifelstrasse  - Lines 16, 12, 15

Eifelplatz – Line 12

Ulrepforte – Lines 16, 15

Chlodwigplatz – Lines 16, 15

Southern Cologne is quiet, and filled with parks and fantastic ancient architecture. If you are the kind of person that does not require constant stimulation to have a great day out, and has previously enjoyed wandering through the cobbled streets of the Old Town (Altstadt), then this area is ideal for you.

Architecture

Ulrepforte – Lines 16, 15

Chlodwigplatz – Lines 16, 15

This area of Cologne is littered with ancient remains of city walls and fort-type constructions. To get the best of this, I would really recommend abandonning the metro out of town at Ulrepforte and taking a leisurely walk up to Chlodwigplatz and wandering the surrounding streets. The last time I was in Cologne the area was, unfortunately, quite heavily laden with steel barriers and construction zones, but I'm hoping that these have been cleared by now, as this was over three years ago (yes, this travel guide is well overdue).

right-hand photo by ingeline-art

Volksgarten

Eifelstrasse  - Lines 16, 12, 15

Eifelplatz – Line 12

The Volksgarten is a beautiful, large park ; ideal for picnics and general gatherings when the weather is good enough. It is most easily accessible from Eifelstrasse (if you don't fancy changing) and takes about 5-10 minutes on foot from here (just follow Eifelstrasse until things start to look green). You can enter the park from Eifelstrasse, or at multiple other points along the Volksgarten's perimeter. If you happen to be travelling there on Line 12, you can stay on an extra stop (Eifelplatz) and shorten your walk a little.

One way in which the Volksgarten stands out from the many other parks you will find dotted around Cologne : The Hellers Kölsch brewery. This charming little brewery is almost all beer garden – very little sheltered – and is situated in smack bang in the middle of the Volksgarten, overlooking a lake. They also serve some simple, yet delicious, dishes along the lines of 'pasta with pesto and feta cheese', and the kölsch is the best to be sampled in Cologne. Perhaps the setting makes my opinion biased here, because on the right day it really is a lovely spot, and maybe it just tastes exactly like all of the other variants of kölsch on offer, but it left a lasting impression on me. For those who are not fans of the local tipple, you can also order other beverages here such as Weissbier and Weizenbier – both very interesting and more adventurous varieties of wheat beer.

Tsunami Club

Chlodwigplatz – Lines 16, 15

I only managed one evening out in Southern Cologne during my stay, which consisted of a picnic in the aforementioned Volksgarten, followed by extended partying (when the night had become too dark to see very much of anything in the park) at a local club called Tsunami.

If your idea of clubbing is sweating buckets and dancing the night away, don't come here. Tsunami is an indie club, in a very real sense. This is not the kind of 'indie' club you might find somewhere like Manchester, playing britpop hits and upbeat modern indie numbers. Expect to hear lots of The Smiths (naturally, an indie club cannot claim to be such unless it plays The Smiths), but the neglected tracks such as 'There is a Light That Never Goes Out', forgotten gems such as 'Female of the Species' by Spaced, and a ton of other obscurities that you have never heard, and have fun trying to dance to them. This place really is unique and well worth a visit. You can find it on Severinstrasse, just behind the impressive Severinstorburg (the big old crumbly fortress thing near Chlodwigplatz)

images courtesy of tsunami-club.de

INDEX

THE RHINE

DOM & ALTSTADT

NORTHERN COLOGNE

RUDOLFPLATZ

LINDENTHAL

EHRENFELD

SÜLZ

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ

SOUTHERN COLOGNE
CITY CENTRE
CITY-WIDE EVENTS

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ

Noteable Metro Stations

Zülpicher Platz – Lines 9, 12, 15

Dasselstrasse/Bahnhof Süd - 9

Zülpicher Platz is a busy metro station that, unsurprisingly, backs on to Zülpicher Strasse – the end where all the nightlife is to be found. In short, it is a great area for an evening out and is packed with pubs, bars, restaurants and fast-food outlets. Whether you are looking to share a few quiet drinks and a dessert with friends, or you are looking to drink and party until the early hours, you will find a venue on or around Zülpicher Strasse to suit. Here are just a few of my favourites...

Oscar

Zülpicher Platz – 9, 12, 15

Oscars is a great place to start or end an evening out. The cocktail menu is extensive, food and drinks reasonably priced and the location is prime. It is the perfect location to meet a group of friends over cocktails and pizza whilst the cavalry gradually assembles and, especially on warm summer days when the façade is opened up, it is a great little vantage point to check the times of the trams running from Zülpicher platz whilst winding down with a glass of warm milk and honey.

If a night out is on the cards, Oscars is situated right next to a couple of, as far as I can recall, decent and reasonably inexpensive clubs, 'Cent Club', and student haunt 'Das Ding'. Expect offers on vodka mixers and cheesy music best left in the 90s – two things that seem to compliment each other.

photos from QuattroCavalli.de

Quattro Cavalli

Dasselstrasse/Bahnhof Süd - 9

If value for money is your thing, and you don't mind the odd pizza, then definitely pay a visit here. The food is good and, for most people at least, probably more than you can reasonably eat (if your table has a full compliment of diners then the waiting staff will struggle to fit the pizzas on the table). The staff are also incredibly friendly and helpful. They went beyond the call of duty to help me when I sat down in there once to find out that my purse had been stolen.

MTC

Zülpicher Platz – 9, 12, 15

MTC is a great little live venue situated on Zülpicher Strasse. Tickets are inexpensive and the bands are often great finds ! I coincidentally saw a gig there from a band (Lauter Leben) who I'd previously seen only a few weeks earlier supporting Silbermond at Köln Palladium (a very big venue). Check out their bookings, you could be in for a treat.

left-hand photo courtesy of last.fm

INDEX

THE RHINE

DOM & ALTSTADT

NORTHERN COLOGNE

RUDOLFPLATZ

LINDENTHAL

EHRENFELD

SÜLZ

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ
SOUTHERN COLOGNE
CITY CENTRE
CITY-WIDE EVENTS

SÜLZ

Noteable Metro Stations

Zülpicher Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 9, 13

Eifelwall – Line 16

Weyertal – Line 9

Lindenburg – Line 9

Sülzburgstrasse – Line 16

Sülz is a charming little corner of Cologne, which lies south-west of the city centre, and is well connected, situated as it is in a triangle between busy metro stations, Zülpicher Platz and Barbarossaplatz. Despite this, it remains a quiet quarter that is perfect for an afternoon spent absent-mindedly shopping, before meeting up with friends for an intimate soirée.

Shopping

Being far enough removed from the city centre, Sülz is a shopping paradise for those who prefer to steer clear of the high street names. Zülpicher Strasse and Berrenrather Strasse, in particular, are littered with independent and vintage clothing boutiques. The shops on Zülpicher Strasse are most accessible from Weyertal (Line 9) and Berrenrather Strasse itself is not too difficult to find from here. The area is nicely arranged in neat squares, so if you are heading along Zülpicher Strasse, away from the city centre, you simply have need to turn left down one of the many side streets (Marsiliusstrasse, Gustavstrasse, Redwitzstrasse – to name just a few) and you will eventually find yourself on Berrenratherstrasse.

One boutique that, for me, shines out from all the other is a dress shop on Zülphicher Strasse (Weyertal), next to a shop that sells Africana, called 'Afrika Hautnah', that I believe to be called 'Cava cava'. The garments in this little gem of a store are unique, and can be tailored to fit by the in-store seamstresses if required. Anything you buy from here will be a little more pricey than your average but will be guaranteed to be elegant and make you feel like a million dollars.

If you like to snack while you shop, there is also a strange little establishment just up the road from here, 'Kaffee Klamott', where you can combine a lovely cup of tea or coffee and a slice of cake with … clothes shopping ; combining, as it does, cafe and boutique.

photo from kaffeeklamott.de

For a full make-over, a more unusual recommendation comes in the form of hairdressing chain 'Cutters' (Sülzburgstrasse). For anybody residing in Cologne for long enough to need a haircut, the thought can be a bit scary, especially for an English-speaker whose doesn't really specialise in German hairdressers' lingo. At Cutters, though, after waiting (you get given a customer number like at a supermarket delhi counter, but you can leave a come back if your wait is a long one), you get your hair cut and then – here is the crucial part – you are sent over to a styling station where you are left in peace with straighteners and products to style your hair how you like it. Only then do you return to the hairdresser for the final cut. An ingenious system that really can save you from Unfortunate-Haircut-Abroad syndrome.

Socialising

There is certainly plenty of choice for venues in Sülz to socialise. The area is bursting with cafes, pubs, bars and restaurants – something for every occasion. For me, a perfect crawl in Sülz would start off, on a sunny day, with a few refreshing glasses of kölsch outside the Eckstein (Sülzburgstrasse), followed up by a meal at mexican restaurant Cafe Rosarita on Weyertal, just a short walk off Zülphicher Strasse (Weyertal). The menu boasts that they serve the best chili that you will ever have tasted. My own father, who would usually take great joy in being able to contradict such a bold statement, still claims it to be true, as does my brother. Whilst I never tried their chili, I found the enchiladas to be delicious

photo by Monika Nonnenmacher

Bursting from a wonderful meal at Cafe Rosarite, you will most likely want to unwind. If you head back to Zülpicher Strasse (Weyertal) you will not be far from Sahara – a tropically decorated cafe/restaurant where you can smoke shisha, enjoy a pot of marroccan mint tea and really feel like you are on a different continent.

If, after all of that, you are still in the mood for more festivities, I would recommend the Schmelztiegel – a pub situated directly between Eifelwall and Barbarossaplatz. It is quite popular with students, as it is a local meeting place for the town's Erasmus society (to my recollection they meet on Tuesday evenings during term-time), so it is a great place to meet people. In the summer, it has also been known to be filled with sand and fitted out with deck-chairs.

left-hand image of Rose Club from locationsite.de.  Right hand image from Schmelztiegel.eu

If dancing is your thing, you can find the Rose Club just over the road, but it is not for the faint hearted – it is a very small venue that gets VERY busy and VERY hot. The music is great, but this really won't be enough for you if you require a bit of breathing space and the possibility of somewhere to sit at some point on a night out. Also, the Rose Club will routinely refuse to serve you tap water when you're gasping for a drink of something non-alcoholic to keep you on your feet. So be prepared to keep enough money to one side for the odd bottled water.

INDEX

THE RHINE

DOM & ALTSTADT

NORTHERN COLOGNE

RUDOLFPLATZ

LINDENTHAL

EHRENFELD
SÜLZ
ZÜLPICHER PLATZ
SOUTHERN COLOGNE
CITY CENTRE
CITY-WIDE EVENTS

EHRENFELD

Noteble Metro Stations

Leyendeckerstrasse – Lines 3, 4

Venloer Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 3, 4, 13

Ehrenfeld is an area that I have not explored a great deal, but there are two great reasons to go there :

Art Olive KulturOase

Leyendeckerstrasse – Lines 3, 4

For any budding musicians out there. At the KulturOase you can not only book rooms for band practises, but also rent them for a very affordable price. As a solo drummer, €33 per month plus refundable deposit bought me a permanent 2-hour time slot every week, with the option to book further time slots online, if available, at no extra cost. Your money also gets you a security fob to the building as well as a key to your allocated room, so you can come and go at any time, day or night, and there is no need to bother with reception staff either. Heaven.

photos from Art Olive website

The KulturOase is technically at 282 Vogelsanger Strasse but, in reality, is only accessible from Hospelt Strasse. To get there, from Leyendeckerstrasse, take the smaller road to the right at the point, just outside the station, where the main road splits off in two directions. This small street is Hospeltstrasse. Simply follow it round until you see the KulturOase on your left.

Underground

Venloer Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 3, 4, 13

A great live music and club venue that specialises in alternative music. I enjoyed many a night out here and saw some great concerts too, including a rather bizarre, and very specific, charity event named Rock Gegen Kinderporno (Rock Against Child Pornography). To get there from Venloer Strasse/Gürtel, walk down Ehrenfeldgürtel with MacDonalds on to your left. Turn right at Vogelsangerstrasse and you'll find it at number 200.

right-hand venue image taken from last.fm website

For another live music and club venue, there's also 'Live Music Hall' nearby. To get there, carry on down Vogelsangerstrasse, past Underground, and then turn left onto Lichtstrasse. I don't remember much about this second venue. I don't recall what kind of music they play or how much entry and drinks costs (and this has nothing to do with alcohol consumption … honest), but I do remember having a great night out here, so it's worth checking out, too.

INDEX

THE RHINE

DOM & ALTSTADT

NORTHERN COLOGNE

RUDOLFPLATZ

LINDENTHAL

EHRENFELD

SÜLZ
ZÜLPICHER PLATZ
SOUTHERN COLOGNE
CITY CENTRE
CITY-WIDE EVENTS

LINDENTHAL

Noteable Metro Stations

Moltkestrasse – Lines 1, 7

Universitätsstrasse – Lines 1, 7

Dürener Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 7, 13

Wüllnerstrasse – Lines 7, 13

Near to the university campus, Lindenthal is an area populated mostly by students, yet surprisingly sleepy in places. The 'high-street' here would be Dürenerstrasse which, as well as having all of the usual mini-supermarkets, banks and pubs, also has a few hidden surprises. Far enough removed frm the town centre, you won't get any high-street names here, but there are some interesting independent shops here where you can pick up a treat or a surprising bargain. Towards the end of Dürenerstrasse (in the direction of RUDOLFPLATZ) you will find Stein's, which houses some interesting garments, quite often with a retro or vintage feel. And if vintage is your thing, there are also a few vintage clothing boutiques to be found right at the end of the street, just before you reach Universitätsstrasse.

Carry on from there (cross over Universitätsstrasse and follow Dürenerstrasse) and you will find yourself at the Aachener Weiher (also accessible from Aachenerstrasse, from Universitätsstrasse station), a man-made lake and a popular picnic spot in the summer months. In a particularly cold winter, the water freezes over and, if sufficiently thick, is used as an ice-skating rink. You'll have to bring your own skates if you have them, so it is far from being an official set-up, but there are always emercency services vehicles on standby in case of accidents.

If you enjoy a watery landscape, you'll be pleased to note that Lindenthall also has a canal system, most easily accessible from Wüllnerstrasse. Simply head down Wüllnerstrasse (with Aachenerstraase in your left and Dürenerstrasse on your right), take any available left turn and you'll soon find yourself strolling along a short stretch of canal.

Lindenthal isn't all nice walks and independent shops though, if you travel down Aachenerstrasse in the direction of RUDOLFPLATZ you'll find that there are many cheap cocktail bars, and if you travel right down Brüsselerstrasse (between Moltkestrasse and Rudolfplatz), you will see a very interest bar adjacent on Richard-Wagner-Strasse – 'Die Wohngemeinschaft'. This is a bar set up to ressemble a 'WG' or 'flat share' between 5 fictional people. Rooms are set up to ressemble lounges and kitchens and you will find all kinds of odd creations such as lights made from snare drums. It is very popular though and you'll be incredibly lucky to find a place to sit most evenings.

INDEX

THE RHINE

DOM & ALTSTADT

NORTHERN COLOGNE

RUDOLFPLATZ

LINDENTHAL
EHRENFELD
SÜLZ
ZÜLPICHER PLATZ
SOUTHERN COLOGNE
CITY CENTRE
CITY-WIDE EVENTS