Tuesday 26 June 2012

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ

Noteable Metro Stations
Zülpicher Platz – Lines 9, 12, 15
Dasselstrasse/Bahnhof Süd - 9

Zülpicher Platz is a busy metro station that, unsurprisingly, backs on to Zülpicher Strasse – the end where all the nightlife is to be found. In short, it is a great area for an evening out and is packed with pubs, bars, restaurants and fast-food outlets. Whether you are looking to share a few quiet drinks and a dessert with friends, or you are looking to drink and party until the early hours, you will find a venue on or around Zülpicher Strasse to suit. Here are just a few of my favourites...

Oscar
Zülpicher Platz – 9, 12, 15

Oscars is a great place to start or end an evening out. The cocktail menu is extensive, food and drinks reasonably priced and the location is prime. It is the perfect location to meet a group of friends over cocktails and pizza whilst the cavalry gradually assembles and, especially on warm summer days when the façade is opened up, it is a great little vantage point to check the times of the trams running from Zülpicher platz whilst winding down with a glass of warm milk and honey.

If a night out is on the cards, Oscars is situated right next to a couple of, as far as I can recall, decent and reasonably inexpensive clubs, 'Cent Club', and student haunt 'Das Ding'. Expect offers on vodka mixers and cheesy music best left in the 90s – two things that seem to compliment each other.


photos from QuattroCavalli.de

Quattro Cavalli
Dasselstrasse/Bahnhof Süd - 9

If value for money is your thing, and you don't mind the odd pizza, then definitely pay a visit here. The food is good and, for most people at least, probably more than you can reasonably eat (if your table has a full compliment of diners then the waiting staff will struggle to fit the pizzas on the table). The staff are also incredibly friendly and helpful. They went beyond the call of duty to help me when I sat down in there once to find out that my purse had been stolen.

MTC
Zülpicher Platz – 9, 12, 15

MTC is a great little live venue situated on Zülpicher Strasse. Tickets are inexpensive and the bands are often great finds ! I coincidentally saw a gig there from a band (Lauter Leben) who I'd previously seen only a few weeks earlier supporting Silbermond at Köln Palladium (a very big venue). Check out their bookings, you could be in for a treat.


left-hand photo courtesy of last.fm


Sunday 24 June 2012

SÜLZ

Noteable Metro Stations
Zülpicher Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 9, 13
Eifelwall – Line 16
Weyertal – Line 9
Lindenburg – Line 9
Sülzburgstrasse – Line 16

Sülz is a charming little corner of Cologne, which lies south-west of the city centre, and is well connected, situated as it is in a triangle between busy metro stations, Zülpicher Platz and Barbarossaplatz. Despite this, it remains a quiet quarter that is perfect for an afternoon spent absent-mindedly shopping, before meeting up with friends for an intimate soirée.

Shopping
Being far enough removed from the city centre, Sülz is a shopping paradise for those who prefer to steer clear of the high street names. Zülpicher Strasse and Berrenrather Strasse, in particular, are littered with independent and vintage clothing boutiques. The shops on Zülpicher Strasse are most accessible from Weyertal (Line 9) and Berrenrather Strasse itself is not too difficult to find from here. The area is nicely arranged in neat squares, so if you are heading along Zülpicher Strasse, away from the city centre, you simply have need to turn left down one of the many side streets (Marsiliusstrasse, Gustavstrasse, Redwitzstrasse – to name just a few) and you will eventually find yourself on Berrenratherstrasse.

One boutique that, for me, shines out from all the other is a dress shop on Zülphicher Strasse (Weyertal), next to a shop that sells Africana, called 'Afrika Hautnah', that I believe to be called 'Cava cava'. The garments in this little gem of a store are unique, and can be tailored to fit by the in-store seamstresses if required. Anything you buy from here will be a little more pricey than your average but will be guaranteed to be elegant and make you feel like a million dollars.

If you like to snack while you shop, there is also a strange little establishment just up the road from here, 'Kaffee Klamott', where you can combine a lovely cup of tea or coffee and a slice of cake with … clothes shopping ; combining, as it does, cafe and boutique.


photo from kaffeeklamott.de

For a full make-over, a more unusual recommendation comes in the form of hairdressing chain 'Cutters' (Sülzburgstrasse). For anybody residing in Cologne for long enough to need a haircut, the thought can be a bit scary, especially for an English-speaker whose doesn't really specialise in German hairdressers' lingo. At Cutters, though, after waiting (you get given a customer number like at a supermarket delhi counter, but you can leave a come back if your wait is a long one), you get your hair cut and then – here is the crucial part – you are sent over to a styling station where you are left in peace with straighteners and products to style your hair how you like it. Only then do you return to the hairdresser for the final cut. An ingenious system that really can save you from Unfortunate-Haircut-Abroad syndrome.

Socialising
There is certainly plenty of choice for venues in Sülz to socialise. The area is bursting with cafes, pubs, bars and restaurants – something for every occasion. For me, a perfect crawl in Sülz would start off, on a sunny day, with a few refreshing glasses of kölsch outside the Eckstein (Sülzburgstrasse), followed up by a meal at mexican restaurant Cafe Rosarita on Weyertal, just a short walk off Zülphicher Strasse (Weyertal). The menu boasts that they serve the best chili that you will ever have tasted. My own father, who would usually take great joy in being able to contradict such a bold statement, still claims it to be true, as does my brother. Whilst I never tried their chili, I found the enchiladas to be delicious



Bursting from a wonderful meal at Cafe Rosarite, you will most likely want to unwind. If you head back to Zülpicher Strasse (Weyertal) you will not be far from Sahara – a tropically decorated cafe/restaurant where you can smoke shisha, enjoy a pot of marroccan mint tea and really feel like you are on a different continent.

If, after all of that, you are still in the mood for more festivities, I would recommend the Schmelztiegel – a pub situated directly between Eifelwall and Barbarossaplatz. It is quite popular with students, as it is a local meeting place for the town's Erasmus society (to my recollection they meet on Tuesday evenings during term-time), so it is a great place to meet people. In the summer, it has also been known to be filled with sand and fitted out with deck-chairs.


left-hand image of Rose Club from locationsite.de.  Right hand image from Schmelztiegel.eu

If dancing is your thing, you can find the Rose Club just over the road, but it is not for the faint hearted – it is a very small venue that gets VERY busy and VERY hot. The music is great, but this really won't be enough for you if you require a bit of breathing space and the possibility of somewhere to sit at some point on a night out. Also, the Rose Club will routinely refuse to serve you tap water when you're gasping for a drink of something non-alcoholic to keep you on your feet. So be prepared to keep enough money to one side for the odd bottled water.



Friday 1 June 2012

EHRENFELD

Noteble Metro Stations
Leyendeckerstrasse – Lines 3, 4
Venloer Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 3, 4, 13

Ehrenfeld is an area that I have not explored a great deal, but there are two great reasons to go there :

Art Olive KulturOase
Leyendeckerstrasse – Lines 3, 4

For any budding musicians out there. At the KulturOase you can not only book rooms for band practises, but also rent them for a very affordable price. As a solo drummer, €33 per month plus refundable deposit bought me a permanent 2-hour time slot every week, with the option to book further time slots online, if available, at no extra cost. Your money also gets you a security fob to the building as well as a key to your allocated room, so you can come and go at any time, day or night, and there is no need to bother with reception staff either. Heaven.



photos from Art Olive website

The KulturOase is technically at 282 Vogelsanger Strasse but, in reality, is only accessible from Hospelt Strasse. To get there, from Leyendeckerstrasse, take the smaller road to the right at the point, just outside the station, where the main road splits off in two directions. This small street is Hospeltstrasse. Simply follow it round until you see the KulturOase on your left.

Underground
Venloer Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 3, 4, 13

A great live music and club venue that specialises in alternative music. I enjoyed many a night out here and saw some great concerts too, including a rather bizarre, and very specific, charity event named Rock Gegen Kinderporno (Rock Against Child Pornography). To get there from Venloer Strasse/Gürtel, walk down Ehrenfeldgürtel with MacDonalds on to your left. Turn right at Vogelsangerstrasse and you'll find it at number 200.


right-hand venue image taken from last.fm website

For another live music and club venue, there's also 'Live Music Hall' nearby. To get there, carry on down Vogelsangerstrasse, past Underground, and then turn left onto Lichtstrasse. I don't remember much about this second venue. I don't recall what kind of music they play or how much entry and drinks costs (and this has nothing to do with alcohol consumption … honest), but I do remember having a great night out here, so it's worth checking out, too.

EHRENFELD

LINDENTHAL

Noteable Metro Stations

Moltkestrasse – Lines 1, 7
Universitätsstrasse – Lines 1, 7
Dürener Strasse/Gürtel – Lines 7, 13
Wüllnerstrasse – Lines 7, 13



Near to the university campus, Lindenthal is an area populated mostly by students, yet surprisingly sleepy in places. The 'high-street' here would be Dürenerstrasse which, as well as having all of the usual mini-supermarkets, banks and pubs, also has a few hidden surprises. Far enough removed frm the town centre, you won't get any high-street names here, but there are some interesting independent shops here where you can pick up a treat or a surprising bargain. Towards the end of Dürenerstrasse (in the direction of RUDOLFPLATZ) you will find Stein's, which houses some interesting garments, quite often with a retro or vintage feel. And if vintage is your thing, there are also a few vintage clothing boutiques to be found right at the end of the street, just before you reach Universitätsstrasse.

Carry on from there (cross over Universitätsstrasse and follow Dürenerstrasse) and you will find yourself at the Aachener Weiher (also accessible from Aachenerstrasse, from Universitätsstrasse station), a man-made lake and a popular picnic spot in the summer months. In a particularly cold winter, the water freezes over and, if sufficiently thick, is used as an ice-skating rink. You'll have to bring your own skates if you have them, so it is far from being an official set-up, but there are always emercency services vehicles on standby in case of accidents.



If you enjoy a watery landscape, you'll be pleased to note that Lindenthall also has a canal system, most easily accessible from Wüllnerstrasse. Simply head down Wüllnerstrasse (with Aachenerstraase in your left and Dürenerstrasse on your right), take any available left turn and you'll soon find yourself strolling along a short stretch of canal.




Lindenthal isn't all nice walks and independent shops though, if you travel down Aachenerstrasse in the direction of RUDOLFPLATZ you'll find that there are many cheap cocktail bars, and if you travel right down Brüsselerstrasse (between Moltkestrasse and Rudolfplatz), you will see a very interest bar adjacent on Richard-Wagner-Strasse – 'Die Wohngemeinschaft'. This is a bar set up to ressemble a 'WG' or 'flat share' between 5 fictional people. Rooms are set up to ressemble lounges and kitchens and you will find all kinds of odd creations such as lights made from snare drums. It is very popular though and you'll be incredibly lucky to find a place to sit most evenings.

RUDOLFPLATZ

Noteable Metro Stations

Rudolfplatz – Lines 1, 7, 12, 15
Friesenplatz - 3, 4, 5, 12, 15
Moltkestrasse – Lines 1, 7

Rudolfplatz is situated just outside of the town centre, just before student region, Lindenthal, and features an iconic archway on its square. There are several metro lines that run through Rudolfplatz (Linien 1, 7, 12, 15), and with similarly busy metro stations, Friesenplatz and Neumarkt, all within walking distance, this is likely to be an area that is regularly frequented by anyone visiting Cologne. There is plenty to do here. The agreeable tree-lined Hohenzollenring that separates it from Friesenplatz is littered with cafes, restaurants and games arcades. My personal favourite cafe in the area is nestled unimposingly between Rudolfplatz and Moltkestrasse, on the left hand side en route to Lindenthal. The reason for all this detail is that I cannot for the life of me remember the name of it, and its façade is so non-descript that even Google Maps does not help. It is worth searching out though as it is often open until gone 3 in the morning. It is a great place to wind down after an evening out or discovering that your tram is going to be delayed by forty minutes. The decoration is a little ridiculous-modern-art heavy, but interesting to look at and talk about, nonetheless.


left-hand photo by neurosengarten

Champs American Sports Bar & Restaurant
Rudolfplatz – Lines 1, 7, 12, 15

If you like sports and burgers, then this is the place for you. The food is excellent as well as reasonably priced, the decor is charming and, though the bar is large, replicates the look of a small-town American diner, without being too overbearing. There are also an impressive amount of television screens available on which to view sports, and most are independently controlled, meaning that you can request a match if the bar is not too busy (i.e you don't conflict with an existing customer's requests). This is a place in Germany where you can watch a regular Aston Villa premier league match whilst everyone else watches the rugby.

You may need to remind the staff of your request a couple of times, though, as the bar is usually very busy, and informal viewing requests, especially if unpopular, may be forgotten by the exhausted waiting staff.


Nachtflug
Friesenplatz - 3, 4, 5, 12, 15

This is one of the only traditional night clubs that I sampled during my year-long stay. The music was predictable and, mostly, crap , but the atmosphere was great. One of my evenings there was interrupted by a fire-breathing act ! This is something that you don't often see in a night club for the obvious Health & Safety risk reasons, though I fully appreciated their carelessness, even if the lightly roasted hairs on my arms did not. It is worth paying attention to what you drink here, though, as, to speed up bar service, the staff here do not take money. They stamp your entry card and you pay on the door as you leave. This can prove expensive if you don't pay attention.
Rex Am Ring
Friesenplatz - 3, 4, 5, 12, 15

Rex Am Ring is a wonderful independent cinema near Friesenplatz station on Hohenzollenring that offers considerable concessions to students and shows an array of foreign films, as well as the usual blockbusters, albeit often dubbed into German, rather than subtitled.

Stadtgarten
Friesenplatz – Lines 3, 4, 5, 12, 15
Hans-Böckler Platz – Lines 3, 4, 5
Christophstrasse/Mediapark – Lines 12, 15

As well as being a lovely patch of greenery, the Stadtgarten also houses a cafe and intimate concert venue. Entry is, again, inexpensive and the acts are very diverse. I, myself, saw Malian musician Issa Bagayogo and his band there. Small as it is, I would really recommend it as a venue. It rarely gets crowded and you really do feel like part of what is happening on stage. The concert I witnessed also included the added extra of a live interview with the band for local radio.



Gamescom Festival
Rudolfplatz – Lines 1, 7, 12, 15
Friesenplatz - 3, 4, 5, 12, 15

This little interactive games and entertainment street festival is mostly situated along the length of Hohenzollenring, with stages set up at Friesenplatz and Rudolfplatz either end for live music performances. There are mobile gaming vehicles set up, a singstar bus, multiple fast food vendors and you will witness beatbox competitions and, of course, lots of live music. It takes place over a couple of days in August and is well worth even a casual visit. After all, entry is free – so what do you have to lose ?